Facial Oils: My Rosacea-Friendly Favourites
Facial oils are my winter skincare secret weapon. Here's everything you need to know
The weather has suddenly turned frosty here in York and my skin is definitely letting me know about it! As soon as the weather gets colder, I immediately switch up my skincare to counteract it: I add in some barrier creams, choose more hydrating and rich moisturisers, and always always add a facial oil into the mix.
If you’ve always been intrigued by oils, but a little bit nervous about introducing one into your routine, you’re in the right place. In this article I cover common questions and concerns (Won’t it make me more oily? Will it block my pores? Are some types of oils better than others? How on earth do I use one?) as well as recommend four of my personal favourite facial oils.
Common questions about facial oils
Whenever I mention facial oils, I always get some variation of the following questions. And they’re all perfectly understandable concerns, and ones that I had myself before I started researching and using oils many moons ago.
So let’s put those concerns to bed, once and for all:
My skin is already oily, won’t putting on more oil make things worse?
This is a really common question and a reasonable assumption.
THIS POST by Michelle from Lab Muffin Beauty Science is a fascinating read if you want to know more about this topic. Basically, your skin cannot detect how little or how much oil is on your skin so - fear not - applying an appropriate facial oil won’t worsen your oil production.
Skin that is dehydrated moves the existing oil in your skin around to try to moisturise and soothe it, so by giving it what it needs (e.g. locking in moisture), your oiliness may improve!
Will oils clog my pores?
Did you know that the term ‘non-comedogenic’ is unregulated? Any brand can slap that on a product or in their advert and you wouldn’t know any different.
I’m going to refer to the oracle that is Lab Muffin Beauty Science again HERE, because she is great at explaining complex things in simple terms. Comedogenicity is the likelihood that something will block pores and it’s a complicated science. But when it comes to oils, one thing to remember is that I’m talking about oils that have been specifically designed and manufactured to be used on the skin on your face. They are much lighter and drier than the oil you have in your kitchen cupboard or that you might use on your body.
Can I use essential oils instead?
Essential oils have been unfairly maligned by some big brands, who are intent on selling products through fear-based marketing. Some brands have built their entire brand on this kind of cleanwashing. But the truth is that essential oils aren’t necessarily an absolutely no-no in skincare.
HOWEVER (and that’s a big HOWEVER!), it is important to think about concentration, formula, and your personal skin type. Applying undiluted essential oils to the skin may cause irritation, contact dermatitis, and even burns, so we have to be very careful what we’re using and where we are getting those products from.
Also we cannot ignore the fact that - as people with rosacea - our skin is more sensitive and often has skin barrier issues, so it’s worth being extra careful. Essential oils are a common source of irritation for those of use with sensitive skin, so it’s definitely something to be aware of and keep an eye on. It’s not a ‘never use’, it’s a ‘be careful and sensible’.
How do I use facial oils?
Oils, by their very nature, are rich and are great at forming a barrier and keeping in moisture, which is why you need to consider where in your routine they should go. I find it best to use them last thing in my evening skincare routine so that they can help prevent Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) - more information on that HERE.
When it comes to application, I have a few methods. I either put a few drops of oil into my palms, rub my hands together and gently press the oil onto my skin; or I mix a few drops of oil into my moisturiser in my hands and apply them together. This last method is a good way to introduce the product if you’re a bit nervous about trying something new, or if you’re worried it’s going to feel ‘too oily’!
I always add an oil into my routine in the winter, as my skin gets more dry, chapped, and sensitised from the cold, central heating, and an increase in other rosacea triggers (e.g. alcohol, cheese, all the good stuff). I’ve heard from many of my readers that more mature skin also seems to respond very well to oils in their skincare routine, as our skin naturally becomes more dry as we age.
Oils are also great as a multi-use product. As well as using on my face, I use them on my cuticles, on my elbows and knees, and have used sparingly on frizzy hair in a pinch.
Do I need a facial oil?
The only skincare products I personally think people need are a cleanser, a moisturiser, and a sunscreen (and even those last two could be combined if it suits your skin and with the right product). Anything beyond those three core products can be beneficial, but as long as you have those sorted, you’ve got a good skincare routine base and can move upwards from there… if you want to.
I am not here to tell you that you simply must buy products, or encourage you to complicate your skincare routine if you’re happy with it and it’s working for you. That has never been my style and never will be. But if you’re looking for bumping up your skin’s moisture levels and would like to try out a facial oil, you can find my recommendations below.
My favourite facial oils
By Sarah Hero Facial Oil
I’ve spoken about By Sarah products before (you may recognise this product as I took it on the long haul flight to Japan, there’s a post about that HERE) and I really love their products and their ethos. A UK brand designed entirely with sensitive skin in mind, which means they’re gentle and soothing with a focus on protecting and strengthening the skin barrier.
Their packaging is also really chic and luxurious - something sadly lacking among ranges aimed at sensitive skin. This oil is a joy to use.
Fragrance-free? Yes
Notable ingredients: Sweet almond, apricot, pumpkin seed, argan oil, evening primrose, and vitamin E
Size: 30ml
Price: Currently £27 HERE
Biossance Squalane Oil
I am a huge fan of squalane as an ingredient, my skin seems to really love it. It’s a fantastic ingredient for anyone who suffers with TEWL or skin barrier issues, even when the skin is sensitive (e.g. rosacea, psoriasis, eczema).
This is a thin formula that has no smell at all, and feels lovely and delicate on the skin. It comes with a pump, which I’m not a huge fan of, but I’m splitting hairs here!
NOTE: Don’t confuse squalane with squalene - the latter is naturally produced in our bodies to help with hydration, but as an ingredient in skincare it was primarily derived from shark liver oil, but that has fallen out of favour with skincare brands…for obvious reasons! However squalane is typically sourced from vegetables and has become a much more popular ingredient.
Fragrance-free? Yes
Notable ingredients: 100% pure squalane (not to be confused with squalene!)
Size: 100ml
Price: £26 HERE
BYOMA Hydrating Recovery Oil
I am a big fan of BYOMA in general (you will have seen me recommend lots of their products before: the mist, moisturisers, serum, cleansers…) and this oil is another to add to the list.
It’s another facial oil with a squalane base, so I was already onboard but it’s just such a lovely soothing product - especially for the price.
Fragrance-free? Yes
Notable ingredients: Squalane, jojoba and rosehip. Does contain Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil which is an essential oil, but at the bottom of the ingredient list (which means it’s the smallest amount) and is an ingredient considered to have soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
Size: 30ml
Price: £13.99 HERE
The Ordinary 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil
Rosehip oil is an ingredient often mentioned in conversations about rosacea. I even found a review of mine HERE from 10 years ago (!) where I raved about the Trilogy Rosehip Oil (which I still love, but this one from The Ordinary edged it out due to the price difference).
I’m going to be honest with you, the smell of rosehip is a little funky but it doesn’t linger so once it’s on your face, you’re fine. And I’d much rather that than a synthetic cloying added fragrance that might irritate my skin!
Fragrance-free? Yes
Notable ingredients: Pure rosehip oil
Size: 30ml
Price: Currently £8.24 HERE
Do you have any favourite facial oils that you’d recommend? Or questions about facial oils that I haven’t covered in this article? Let me know in the comments:
I can't believe I've only just realised that 'fragrance free' doesn't mean it has no scent... I don't think I've ever used a FF product that does have a scent so it never occurred to me that it could have a natural scent from the ingredients!
Ohh I'll try the Squalane Oil as have skin barrier issues and like really simple formulations.
You ever heard anyting about Pear Seed Oil? I bought some after reading Nigella Lawson reccomended (and in my head I'll just need a few drops look like a young NL!) and reviews suggested it was good for rosacea.
As with a few things it's n my "too scared to use" secton.